One rainy day, I suddenly found myself thinking of a rainy afternoon during my university years in Huế. On days like that, there was nothing better than going out to enjoy a bowl of something hot and delicious with friends. Near my dormitory, there was a small street. It was not a busy road but to me it was a street of food. With several universities nearby, there were always plenty of delicious and inexpensive dishes. Around three in the afternoon the little stalls would come alive with the colors and aromas of bún thịt nướng (Vietnamese grilled pork vermicelli), bún mắm nêm (vermicelli with fermented anchovy sauce), bánh Huế (traditional Huế-style savory cakes), bún hến (Huế clam vermicelli), and chè Nam Phổ (Nam Phổ-style sweet dessert soup).
Whenever I could not decide what to eat, I would stop by a little stall selling bún thịt nướng. It opened at about three and if I arrived a little late there was often nothing left. The stall was small and crowded. People sat around tiny tables while the vendor grilled meat over a charcoal stove. No one seemed to mind the cramped space. We were simply there for the food.

On a cool afternoon, a bowl of bún thịt nướng was at once wonderfully warm and refreshing. The pork was tender and pleasantly chewy, with slightly charred edges and the flavor of lemongrass and spices. Its sweetness blended with cool herbs, crisp papaya and carrot, soft Huế vermicelli and rich creamy peanut sauce. A little ground chili brought all the flavors to life. What I loved most was watching the meat being grilled. The fat sizzled over the glowing charcoal and the aroma rose with the smoke.

Now, far from Huế that taste brings back more than a meal. It brings back my university days, the rainy afternoons and the warmth of a place I once called home. Sometimes one taste is enough to bring an old memory flooding back.
If you ever have the chance to visit Huế be sure to try this dish. You may find yourself falling in love with it from the very first taste.